It is the site of an American experiment that worked. Skyline Drive is the type of road you travel slowly, to savor each new vista around the bend.
The Shenandoah Mountains attracted thousands of settlers in the 19th century, and why not? The land is beautiful. Timber was plentiful. And it wasn't all that far from established large cities on the Atlantic coast.
But by the early twentieth century, some of the land was in bad shape. It had been overworked. Native wildlife and plants began to disappear in places.
According to park officials, recent research indicates only about 12% of what is now Shenandoah National Park was cleared or cultivated. Still, the idea of refreshing the land by creating a park space was a novel approach in the early 1930s.
Another new idea at the time: build a road that would ride the ridge of the mountains, and offer travelers frequent "pulloffs" or vistas from which to view all the restored beauty.
The results of this experiment, Skyline Drive and Shenandoah National Park, live today as a conservation achievement of the first rank -- and a budget travel destination rarely matched for beauty, convenience and thrift.
Fifteen Dollars Well Spent
It can be said of all the national parks. The $15 USD admission fee provides a huge benefit rarely matched in the travel world.
That money helps employ a team of knowledgable, friendly rangers, who work hard every day to make your visit enjoyable. It allows for a system of self-guided hiking trails or ranger-guided nature walks. It maintains beautifully-appointed campgrounds and a road that reveals some of the best scenery eastern America has to offer.
What makes the Shenandoah fee all the more wonderful is the park's proximity to large population centers. It is a great weekend getaway for people in places like Washington, D.C., Philadelphia, Baltimore or Richmond. Pittsburgh, Cleveland and Cincinnati are a day's-drive from the park entrance.
If you have a long weekend, Shenandoah can fill the hours with solitude and scenery as few other places so close to the action.
Shenandoah falls short for people who want luxury served with their mountain splendor. There are no fancy hotels or five-star restaurants here. The nearest hospital is an hour's drive; something to think about when you scale those rocks for a better view of the valley.
Speed Limit 35 MPH
Another drawback for the fast-paced traveler is the speed limit on Skyline Drive. It is designed for safety and scenery, not swiftness.
The 105 mile-long drive connects the northern entrance of the park near Front Royal (just 75 miles from Washington) with Rockfish Gap and the northern entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Be certain that you fuel up before entering the park. There are a few gasoline stations along the way (usually near the campgrounds) but running out of gas on this two-lane road is not a budget travel experience you'll want to remember. Also stock up ahead of time on other essentials like prescriptions or special foods. Make certain your vehicle is in good working order (brakes are important!) because mechanical service in the area is limited.
With those concerns behind you, you'll enjoy no less than 42 scenic pulloffs--an average of about one for every two miles of driving.
Skyline Drive is frequently closed in the winter months, when ice and snow make driving too dangerous to risk. But the closings are weather-event based, so it's possible to travel here on any day of the year. Just remember that between late October and early March, most facilities beyond "The Drive" will be closed.
Let's Make Camp!
There are four campgrounds along that stretch: Matthew's Arm (mile marker 22), Big Meadows (mm 51), Lewis Mountain (mm 57) and Loft Gravel platforms are provided for tenderfoots, with backcountry camping also available. Mountain (mm 79). Tent and trailer spaces usually are available on a first-come, first-served basis, something to keep in mind if you'll be visiting during peak season. Big Meadows is the largest and sometimes requires reservations. In keeping with the tradition of restoring primitive beauty, the campgrounds do not provide electrical, water or sewage hookups.
But the campgrounds are well-equipped and carefully maintained. Camp stores are located within a mile or two of each site. Tent campers will find soft gravel platforms alongside their picnic table and fire pit.
If you like to "rough it", backcountry camping is permitted in most areas if first you obtain a free permit. There is a strict "leave it as you found it" policy at all the sites. Campers are expected to take away any trash they bring in, and store food beyond the reach of bears.
Next page > Tips to enhance your Shenandoah stay
All photographs (c) 2001 Mark Kahler, licensed to About.com, Inc.
